TRADE WINDS
Isla Espiritu Santo anchorage, Islas Las Perlas, Panamá, Sunday, 29
November 2009

So peaceful here in Espiritu Santo! But, between longer bouts of doing
zip, I have been working on little engine projects: for example, I sealed
the exhaust-pipe joints with a salve-type sealant and wrapped the lengths
of 2-inch, galvanised pipe with asbestos cloth to help keep the heat in
the engine room to a minimum. I coat the asbestos with leftover red spray
-paint at the end to make sure there is no dust flying around later. The
pipes now look like wrapped racehorse legs, but red instead of white. The
stuffing gland had been dripping mightily and I got back behind the engine
and tightened it up (basically it had only been tightened 'hand tight'
when the shaft was re-attached to the engine, and it was no big deal to
rectify. While I was back there, I gave the engine and engine room a good
cleaning and wiped the engine down lightly with diesel fuel. If I can get
myself to do two projects in one day (gasp!), I might even consider making
new sleeves for the dinghy oars by sewing on lengths of leather with waxed
sail thread and/or install the tab for the windvane steering in
preparation for our 100 Nm crossing of the Golfo de Panamá to Punta Mala
sometime soon. But, maybe that will be tomorrow.

Yesterday we go with Ron, Diane and Erika of S/V Batwing to the far side
of little Isla Espiritu Santo; it's only a small walk through the jungle
from the inside beach to the beautiful and deserted white beach on the far
side. It is exposed to some ocean waves at times so there is a good
selection of plastic trash as well as bamboo or mangrove logs above the
high-water mark. I was on the lookout for larger plastic containers to
catch rainwater and was successful in my scavenging. I guess you could say
the beach is not really pristine; on the other hand, it is deserted and in
general very clean. We had brought our snorkelling gear and, although the
water is bit murky after all the rains, we are able to see lots of
tropical fish along the reef.

Roger of S/V Sea Fury seems to be the main provider of fish for the
anchorage and yesterday around dark he brings us a huge filet of sierra
mackerel (again), which ten minutes later we are frying briefly in a pan
with a bit of oil and touch of Thai curry paste. We eat the fish with
boiled potatoes. There is so much fish that our tummies are extended.
Tonight we shall go over to Sea Fury to watch a DVD on their large screen.

Ever since we arrived here the skies have been threatening rain. Last
night was no different. In the rainy season, Islas Las Perlas sit more or
less right in the ITCZ (Inter Tropical Convergence Zone or 'Doldrums').
When the dry season arrives however, the ITCZ moves south towards the
equator, and Panamanian waters are favoured by Trade Winds, which are
generally strong northerlies.

Right now the weather is changeable and, although we get some nortos, the
Trades have not really set in. A wind blew up from the north last evening,
however, and blew small waves into the anchorage, the wind whistling in
the rigging and Vilisar tugging at her anchor and begin confused by the
fight between the current and the wind. Now that I have set up our sun
awning to catch rainwater and found two quite large plastic containers on
the beach to catch the water, and although the little squall blew for
quite a while, there is of course no downpour. Rats! There are a couple of
freshwater streams ashore, but who wants to lug jerry jugs when you can
catch rainwater? As I said, the weather is changeable and one lives in
hope. Today we are being provided with 10-15 kt N winds and bright
sunshine, 30oC temperatures and blue skies with puffy clouds. Trade wind
weather. We are enjoying it and are considering getting our dinghy sail
and spars rigged to sail around in the anchorage.

When the winds come predominantly from the north we shall more easily be
able to sail to Western Panamá and Costa Rica. It is about 400 Nm
altogether and there are one or two long overnights. We want to stop at
interesting islands or remote harbours if we have the time and perhaps
even spend a day or two at each place before arriving in Golfito, Costa
Rica. Kathleen has to be back in Panamá City by Christmas Eve to catch her
flight to Frankfurt. We shall probably leave here on Wednesday to get down
to the bottom of Islas Las Perlas (e.g. Bahía Cocos or Isla San Jose) and
jump off from there when we get the weather we want. Once we have checked
into Costa Rica and Kathleen has taken the long-distance bus back to
Panamá City, I shall be solo aboard and gradually move the boat back
towards the Gulf of Panamá and perhaps also back to these islands before
Kathleen returns in early March. Then we shall make our final decision
about heading off to Polynesia and the South Pacific. Generally, we are
inclined to go, but after our frustrating experiences this past season, we
are loath to make firm plans until we are quite close.